Random Thoughts

What is McCluskieganj

McClusskiegunj is a town in the state of Jharkhand, India. At on time it had a significant Anglo Indian population of around 400 families, but now there are about 20 or so left. The place was to be a "Muluk" for Anglo Indians but post independence did not take off.

Who should visit McCluskiegunj

If you are looking for a very rural setting away from the maddening crowd, if you wish you had a few days without mobile and be just yourself, if fresh air and roads filled with fallen leaves is your dream holiday spot, if cars a few and seen once a while, if dew drops in the morning feel as it it rained last night, if the sound of chirping insects fill the air at night, if the sound of rattling train in the middle of the night wakes you up but doesn't disturb you, then you have it - McCluskiejunj.

Why did I visit McCluskiegunj all alone

I decided to visit McCluskiegunj for a couple of days all by myself, leaving my family behind. Being in the hospitality industry is very hectic with daily work pressure and deadlines. Long ago, perhaps 30 or more years earlier as a teenager I read and article about the place. It had a photo of a Western looking lady wearing a sari and selling bananas at the railway station remained in my mind. I longed to visit the place and meet the lady as well, who is now nearing 70 years - I will speck about her later. Yes, I need time for myself where I can follow my heart and not be under any obligation, whether personal or professional.

How to reach McCluskiegunj

No need to Google, just follow what I say. You need to reach Ranchi (by Air or train) and then book an Ola Cab. It costs around INR 1850 from the airport. By the way cars from the Airport counter will charge around INR 2500+. The drive is mostly through city and small towns and fields, but the last 10 KM is through jungle.

Note on Mobile Phone

Vodafone does not work at all. Other operators are available like Jio and Airtel, but connection is not good. BSNL should work, I have one especially for such tours but unfortunately left it behind.

Where to stay

There are few accommodations I am told, but I feel Gordon Lodge is very reasonable and just suited for someone from middle class background. It is reasonably priced, centrally located and no frills attached. Running hot water was not available but you ask for it and get it in a bucket, just like the good old days

FYI – Mr. Gordons number is 98357 70679

What to carry

Warm clothes if you plan to visit during winter - the best time to visit.

Ear muffs - you will travel by auto and need it

A small immersion heater or electric kettle to boil water for your tea/coffee. Cup, Sugar, powder milk, tea sachets, coffee sachets (I love Bru Sachets INR 2 each), soup sachets, couple of spoons, a small knife to cut fruits if you buy.

A lock for the room door if you wish to put yours - it is a safe place though

Torch,

Sachet of liquid dish-washing soap

Xerox copies of your ID (It is rural, but hotels require but have no photocopiers)

I always carry a medium steel mug (army type) and use my mini immersion heater to boil eggs

Little salt for your eggs or to gargle

Odomos while you go out during the evening

BTW - did not see any wine shop around, coke is available, you decide

What to see

This place is to relax, but there is a lot to see as well. Watch the film - a death in the Gunj and you will know what to expect. Take an auto for sightseeing. Ask Mr Gordon of Gordon Lodge and he will call the driver for you. He will take you around the place. You will visit abandoned houses, very British, a place for all religions left incomplete, house of Buddhadev Guha, House of Aparna Sen, Dugadugi river and other rivers, mustard fields, Churches etc. You will surely enjoy the tour.

On Wednesdays there is a weekly market a little distance away, very rural and worth seeing. See my photos. To reach there by foot and shortcut , just enter the station, its open, no boundaries. Go under the over bridge to the narrow road , walk straight seeking directions at times. The main road route is much longer and perhaps twice the distance

What to eat

You can have your meals at Gordon lodge, very tasty, cooked by Mr Gordon’s sister. Chicken curry and rice costs INR 300 and is good enough for 2 light eaters. You can also order dal, subzi , fish and parathas for evening. Orders need to be placed in advance

You must try the Dhuska, a rice based pakoda sold especially by the guy on front of the railway station. The shacks with thatched roofs opposite the station serve egg curry, rice, aloo bhaja with skin, Bihari style but delicious, etc. Very unhygienic but since I grew up in a rural setting; I did not seem to mind and did not fall sick. There is an omelette seller who cooks eggs in a long handled ladle, giving it a dome like shape, served in green saal patta.. His shack is just near the station on the way to Gordon Lodge.

Kitty Memsab (Kitty Texeira)

No visit to McCluskiegunj is complete without meeting Kitty Memsab. She sums up what the place is – glorious past, very westernized but now things are different. Ask your auto driver to take you to her place. Do carry a small gift for her, exchange a few words and don’t bother her much. She is happy to meet but respect her privacy.